5.28.2012
A simple curried cauliflower
5.23.2012
Big grain waffles, a robust preparation
In matters of food and parenting, my favorite author is Mathew Amster-Burton (@Mamster, author of Hungry Monkey). I don't have a quote, but he says not to try to hard to get your kid to try new foods, let their peers take care of it. I like this advice and comply diligently. I'd like to have a beer with him sometime (hey, if you're ever in Columbus ...). In addition to the parenting wisdom, he describes a version of overnight yeasted waffles we've made for a long time now.
The only difference is I don't separate egg yolks/whites or beat whites or anything like that. The only value I bring to this preparation is that I've tested it a gazillion times, used lots of different grain combinations and it always produces a surprisingly light, but grainy waffle. My post is merely a validation of the prep.
The night before, mix:
butter, unsalted and melted, 114 grams (1 stick)
milk, any temperature any kind, 500 grams
salt, 5 g
sugar, 15 g
eggs, 2
dry active yeast, ca. 1/4 t
--and here's where it gets fun--
300 grams of grains
The only thing I make sure of is 100 grams of the grain bill is unbleached white (some fine white flour is necessary for structure in the final waffles), the rest can be any combination that adds up to 200 grams, e.g.
-spent grains from brewing - barley, rye, wheat (hydrated)
-cornmeal
-coarse whole wheat flour
-rolled oats
-rye flakes
-&c
have fun
Mix all ingredients, cover the bowl with a dish towel and the next morning, just ladle it into your preheated waffle iron. That's it. Makes enough for 3-4 people and about a week's worth in the freezer - this recipe is pretty big.
We top them with everything, it's a blast.
| yum! |
5.10.2012
Dear Megan's Father, we're not worthy
| it's wonderful |
Our depression era behavior toward consumption of gifts is irrational. We have unconsumed: a 750 of Rockmill Brewery's Dubbel, 10 or so ancient gift cards, a big juicy refectory GC, a Rioja that we might deed to Frankie, there are others.
Unlike gift cards, handcrafted food is a gift of oneself. And, that person waits anxiously for the day when feedback arrives. I know this too well, sometimes it hurts. To hoard these treasures is cruel and unusual.
About two months ago, a friend generously gave us a package of prosciutto made by her father(!!). Perfectly cured, perfectly sliced and perfectly vacuum wrapped. It wasn't just the professional presentation of a rare delicacy, it was so well packaged, I thought we could keep it for nearly ever, and almost tried. Prompted by the presentation of yet another batch of the delectable ham, we tore in to it and our expectations and desires were perfectly realized: texture, salt, everything, just perfect! We're going to savor it and enjoy it slowly, but we are going to consume it, with not a trace uneaten. We thank you and apologize for holding these comments hostage.
ps Stop by, even if you only have a few minutes next time in Columbus, a pizza only takes about 90 seconds.
5.04.2012
chappathi
I've never been a big fan of whole wheat flour. The big commercial mills have stuff that tastes bad, KAF white whole wheat is ok, I've enjoyed baked goods made with a ca. 30% of the grain bill as Stutzman Farms (link when I find it) whole wheat, but it's too coarsely milled for a 100% whole wheat anything. Inspiration from a couple friends this week changed all that (thanks Gary and Indu!).
Last weekend we enjoyed an incredible spread of Indian delicacies, both meat and vegetarian; it was the type of food you eat way past the point of satiation, way past. So, I got some books and am starting to get into the cuisine a bit. On the way there I needed a starchy foundation to hold all I want to make. Chappathi sounded like a good bread to start. Another friend was kind enough to coax her child to videotape her preparation. This video, some question and answer, a bunch of youtube vids and some reading and voilĂ . Here's my prep with a few details I thought significant based on failed runs.
The recipe is trivial, whole wheat flour, I used atta from a Mediterranean food market (167 g), salt (2 g) and water (100 g), mix, knead and let sit a few minutes, then divide into 70 g balls and round them, let rest again. I rolled these balls into 8" diameter discs and tossed them on an electric skillet at a surface temperature of 400°F (+/- 20°F, measured with an IR thermometer) for about a minute on each side and finished them off by placing them on a lit burner for about 15 seconds until it puffs or catches on fire. I used an electric skillet because I wanted to know the temperature at least once. In earlier failed attempts, I think the pan on the stove was not hot enough. So, in the future I know to get the surface at least this hot. Also appreciate the thickness of the rolled dough is dictated by the diameter of the rolled dough and it's mass, it's too hard to measure the thickness.
Click on image and the difference in fineness is a little easier to visualize.
I'm not sure how good these look, but I think I could live on them,
and they're ready in a few minutes! I totally see wraps in my future lunches.
4.21.2012
Sous vide equipment (and a first steak)
In the course of another investigation, I had the opportunity to evaluate this hotplate I scored at a thrift store (woot! $6). It's a real lab hotplate like one I'd have used in grad school. My days as a chemist gone, I saw this and couldn't resist. So, I plunked in about 20 pounds of water (ca 10 qts) and played with some settings until I found the medium rare setting for beef.
... ten hours later...here it is, it's warm, fleshy and disgusting.
I then tossed it on direct flames (the Weber) for about a fiery minute each side. Look at it! It's pink no matter where you look! I'm enamored at this. I think it was about 1.2 pounds, we split it 3 ways, even Frankie liked it quite a bit.
4.11.2012
Firedome plus chimney - the challenge continues
See critical updates below:
Tonight I did a practice run with my Firedome this time with a chimney (water heater exhaust pipe) sitting over the top vent. Pretty huge difference. Fast to heat, and fast to ignite new wood. Here's the temp data for the quick burn.
4.04.2012
3.31.2012
spent grain bread
water, 300 g
veg oil, 10 g
sugar, 10 g
yeast, Fleischmann's fast, pkt
unbleached white, Montana Sapphire 220 g
whole wheat, Stutzmann Farms, 50 g
hydrated spent grain, barley/rye 30 g
sunflower seeds, roasted 30 g
rolled oats, 30 g
flax seed, 30 g
Straight dough method, divided dough in two pieces, shaped and proofed as boules, baked 400F for about 40 minutes.
3.29.2012
Merguez and chickpea stew
I don't usually post what I ate last night, but I don't want to forget this one. I took a bunch of merguez out of the casing, sauteed it slowly to render the fat. Then I removed the meat from the pan. To the wonderfully spiced fat, I added a little more olive oil, a bunch of slivered onion and cauliflower, some stock, tomato paste and braised until the cauliflower was tender. I then added a can of chickpeas and about a cup of currants and then added the meat back in. The entire mixture was then simmered gently until dinner, about an hour. Really, really good, a keeper.
3.26.2012
3.25.2012
3.23.2012
meyer lemon marmalade
So equal weight sugar and citrus (I've done an orange before using this as well) and enough water, replenishing if necessary, to allow a 2-3 hour gradual simmer/concentration and marmalade.
3.18.2012
Basic Foods: Authority Posts
Too often I want a quick prep and don't want to read - I just want to cook. My goto places are: Ruhlman's Ratio, SimplyRecipes.com by Elise, 101CookBooks.com, CookingLight.com and a few others.
3.10.2012
Cherry Smoked Bacon (or more product placement than Apple in Starbucks)
Warning: This post features oodles of product crap and not one of the product-producing bastards gave me a nickel.
For xmas, the wife gave me a Smoke Daddy smoker offset box. A well-machined bit of aluminum and steel made to fit into a chamber with hand-tight fittings via a 7/8" dia hole. The smoke comes from wood and today I'm using Traeger smoking pellets hoping to get a longer smoking session without having to do more than sip beer and stare at it. I used plain old chips off the shelf, but they burned too quickly. The pellets I got for just under a buck a pound were just what this rig needed. One charge of 200 grams of pellets goes for 3-4 hours. The line into this thing (that blue line) is hooked to a small aquarium pump. This is necessary to keep the combustion going, the lit pellets will suffocate without a perk of air. I'll try slowing the flow of air to get a few more hours out of it.
So that's it, see below for a few action shots. I prepped my pork belly according to Saucisson Mac's bacon manifesto and tossed it on. I especially like Saucisson Mac's thoughts on a solution brine rather than a solid/surface salting, more uniform and faster to get the belly cured.
I put the pellets in and lit it with a brief zap of a propane torch like the instructions suggested, capped it off and started the aquarium pump.
My pork belly, about 2.5 lbs. This is where economies of scale scream "MORE BACON." The brining of a pork belly is easy; that chamber has two racks of space and given how fast I gave away the last batch, I should've made pounds and pounds. Fear not, you may see xmas gifts that bear some resemblance.
After searching throughout Columbus, I gave up and found my cherry pellets at Amazon (isn't that sad, to get a fuel source from Amazon?) They are a nicely manufactured product though, perfect for this type of apparatus.
See through the door? That's me sipping whiskey and strumming my banjo.
fin, tomorrow's breakfast will be special.


