Baltimore, a trip down memory lane (with Yelp to jog my memory)

If my friends from Baltimore are watching - I love you guys and I'm sorry we haven't been back.  But a friend asked if I had food tips and I said I'd break out anything I had.  However, I needed an assist from Yelp, it's my favorite app when traveling.

My picks for @jarsloth et. al.

1. The Helmand
806 N Charles
Every city's got one, and Baltimore's on Charles is awesome (4/5 Yelp).  My favorite was the pumpkin appetizer (aushak?).  You could order only this and leave immensely satisfied.

2. The Brewer's Art
1106 N Charles
Dark, Belgian style ales on tap, bar food, awesome.

3. Mount Royal Tavern
1204 W Mount Royal Ave
4/5 on yelp, it should be 1/5
Dumpy and local, I lived around the corner from this and went frequently.  Look for this on flickr and see the images of the ceiling.

4. John Steven
1800 Thames St
Touristy but I loved it.  Eat shrimp w Old Bay and enjoy Fells Point

5. Trinacria Foods
406 N Paca
Italian market.  GO, but be careful.

6. DiPasquale's Italian Market
3700 Gogh St
Killer Italian market with lots of prepared food.  I'm drooling just thinking about it.

7. Cross St Market
1065 S Charles (Federal Hill)
Like North Market x10

8. Beer
Anywhere downtown has tons of bars w good beer

9. Go and Google Pit Beef in Baltimore and make sure you get some for breakfast.

10. Martick's
I'm so sorry, you missed it.  Martick died last year as did a little part of all the patrons who enjoyed a meal with him.  Go read some of the reviews on Yelp, suprisingly, some of the comments capture how special it was.  So, so sad it's closed.

11. Vaccaro's Italian Pastry Shop
222 Albemarle St, Little Italy (5/5 on Yelp)
One word, cannoli.

12. Charleston
1000 Lancaster St
Really pricey and really good, my wife and I went a few times and always got her fried chicken.

I'll keep adding as I think up the good spots.  So far: DiPasquale's, Pit Beef and Mount Royal Tavern are my best memories.

a nearly uneventful week of good food and drink

I found some killer pork belly at CAM in the Bethel / Olentangy complex and made it into bacon, I didn't brine it long enough (impatient), but it's still decent bacon.  I learned that brinng for 3 days and more is really necessary for a proper cure (prior to smoking).  I smoked with Hickory embedded Kingsford to 148F internal.

 Here is a sample cooking.  Frankie now wants a ham and bacon sandwich for school.

At the end of the last school year, I added a four bread delivery to the silent auction.  My last delivery of a "spent grain whole wheat boule" was so late, I tossed in an apple tart.  The recipients were tickled.

I tossed a basic wheat/white straight dough in the oven for some pita to accompany hummous for a quick dinner meal.

I always seem to forget how nice a Turkish coffee is, sweetened and brewed with a couple cardomom pods.  I got the ibrik last year while in the North End of Boston.  This is an easy coffee to make, try Lavash's sometime for a great example of what it should taste like.

I tried out a super duper thin crust pizza.  My usual 10" diameter pizza is made from a 200-225 g crust, in this case only 150 g.  I had to increase the fat content to keep it tender while in my Firedome.  Still might try playing with more dough preps, I really like California Pizza Kitchen's pies.  Trish likes it, but I still like a little thicker crust.

Also, Firedome development is done.  It's a reliable tool now I.  The final snag was simply an apprentice-length period to learn how to cook with a live fire.  The equipment design is nearly as simple as the first version and is solid.

I'm crazy about ribs lately; add briquettes, a water tray and don't peek for 5 hours, then sauce 'em and cook another 30 min and done.  Less looking, more cooking.  Pick the ribs carefully, we prefer a leaner back rib.

We inherited about 50 lbs of these not-good-enough-to-pick pears.  They are destined for processing into spirits.  The processing will be laborious and an experiment, but with great payoff.  While preparing one for a sugar assay (ca. 15 Brix) ...

I shredded my index finger tip.  Despite some intense pain, nearly passing out on the way to the ER shuttled by my worried and loving family, the surgeon said I got lucky.  I should heal with as much function as I had before. 

flour tortillas

I find corn tortillas challenging.  Too often, mine crack as I wrap the tortilla around fillings.  Striving for authenticity, I kept at it, but still haven't obtained a good flexible one.  Having just returned from San Diego and the pilates capital of the world, La Jolla, I realized there is no shame in a flour tortilla.  I enjoyed them immensely loaded with fish and veggies, especially from Tin Fish, wow!

After a few youtube vids, I heated a griddle on my grill, mixed up some dough and went at it.  The dough is simple: 500 grams unbleached white flour, 100 grams lard, 5 grams salt, 5 grams baking powder and 300 g water, knead and let rest 20 minutes.  I took hunks of about 60-70 grams of dough, rounded them and rolled with a rolling pin to about 8-10" diameter - that's pretty thin.  They are delicate, but not too difficult to handle, that is if you don't spill a PBR Tall on them.  If that happens, drink some beer, squish the soggy mass together, add some flour and repeat a few steps from above.

I chose a nice hot griddle on top of my briquette fire for cooking (ca. 500-600°F).  They take a little less than a minute per side.  Make these!

 

 Thin dough tossed on looks like this in about 30 seconds.

Flip remove and eat. 

Smoked ribs over oak

In honor of last weekend's (gargantuan lines at the) rib fest, I had an itch for my own smoked ribs. I ran out of briquettes and was going to put it off for another time. Then, I felt a little embarrassed. I'm pretty sure ribs were made prior to the age of Kingsford. Given that we now live in one of the windiest climates on the planet and the fallen wood is abundant, I went to get some aged whatever wood is in the pile out back and lit it using a little lighter fluid (pththth, no judging!). Once the wood was on fire, I set up with a water pan, capped the grill and smoked the ribs (lovingly rubbed with brown sugar, paprika, s & p) over indirect heat. I didn't know if it'd be too hot, but I took the plunge, only about $10 for the ribs.

Fire in the hole!

I tossed my datalogger probe in for kicks. With the data collected, in my head, I calculated the mean kinetic temperature confirming it to be a perfect 225°F. I cooked 'em from 9-2 tossing in small logs when I remembered. It seems I got an hour or so per chunk of wood. Maybe if I had smaller more regular chunks, I may have been able to smooth out some of the peaks and valleys. I'm beginning to see the origin of the briquette from this rather primitive trial run.

I wrapped them up in foil on Sunday and we ate them tonight. WOW! It pays to be sloppy and careless. What a fun bbq session. I served these with Ruhlman's Carolina sauce and a bunch of roasted veggies inspired by Persephone (but, sadly without the okra, couldn't find any).

Rolled grain berries, beyond oats

Big food manufacturers use the word wholegrain all over their packaging even though the majority of wholegrain-derived foods have been processed to the point where the carbs are nothing more than sweet, sweet mono and disaccharides.  Then they add sugar to it.  The U.S. grows great grains, why the excessive processing?

Lately, our food interests have to do with aging healthfully, and we're not giving up carbs, we're embracing them.  But, they gotta be the complex ones.  We do savor our simple carb treats, but they must be limited.

Working hard to find the most complete and most palatable grain options led us to uncover a dusty tool purchased by accident years ago, a flaker.  It looks like a pasta machine with knurled rollers.  Using one of the more narrow roller settings, whole grain berries are turned into rolled/flaked grain.  A pound takes about 5 minutes of light duty cranking.

The most familiar food resulting from this type of processing is rolled oats.  Oat berries (or oat groats - dehulled with bran intact) are created with this high pressure process.  Subsequently, the flakes undergo thermal processing (steaming and or toasting) to reduce enzyme activity for added shelf life.  Using a flaker, we can roll our own as needed and not worry so much about shelf life; grain berries can be stored for a long time without going rancid.  Removing the additional thermal processing may make this more healthy (DOI: 10.1021/jf011222z), but the big advantage of rolling your own is that other grains can be used.  There's no reason to eat just oatmeal.

The rolled grain, compared to the berry, is easily hydrated and enjoyed more easily without long cooking methods, e.g., a muesli type cereal; add rolled oats (or buckwheat, wheat, rye, spelt, etc.) some (dried) fruit, nuts, coconut (sweetened is good) and milk, let sit an hour or overnight and bang, wholegrain cereal.  It's really good!

Meatballs. Some refinements, other questions left opened.

I love meatballs.

In fact, when the challenge was announced for the event of the century, The Food Experiments/Columbus, I not only stayed in my comfort zone, I took my passion for the meatball and used it as a substrate for the theme of the event (smoke) to share with all who would attend.

Days before the event, Spilled Milk podcast had an episode on meatballs!  Favorite foodies of mine @Mamster and @MollyOrangette filled my head with information and reinforced much of what I knew about the meatball.  It's not just about the meat; it's about tenderness and fillers.  The term fillers has bad connotations, but in the context of a meatball, the fillers give the meat tenderness and make it a nugget of beauty; something that when pushed with a fork on one's plate, should almost fall apart.  I listened to the podcast, read a zillion recipes, listened to the sage advice of Saucisson MAC and used past experience to assemble my final recipe.  

This is a ground turkey meatball that my family loves.  However, it is only one type, I love all meatballs: pork, chuck, mixtures thereof, etc.  Regarding cooking, I've always been partial to dropping them in gently perking tomato sauce, I think it's called braising (but I don't know the difference between braising and poaching).

Turkey meatballs

Turkey, ground, 1 lb (I used an Ohio Turkey farm, Bowman Landes free range tureky, thighs)

bulgur, fine particle size, 1/2 cup

bread crumbs, 1/2 cup

salt, 5 g

eggs, 2 

pepper, 1 t

onion, finely grated, 2 T

parsley, lots, curly and flat, finely minced, at least 2-3T

garlic powder

milk, 20 g

Mix with hands and make into little golf ball-sized lumps, makes about 54.

I made about 280 for the food competition.  I cooked these in a simple tomato sauce of Pomi tomatoes (900 g), water (900 g), olive oil (30 g), salt (about 5 g) and a whole onion removed after some gentle simmering.  The thin tomato sauce gets thickened when bulgur gets in it from the meatball. 

Regarding the bread: For the competition, I made 20 g mini brioche loaves that were hollowed out for the "bread bowl" for our meatball slider.  They kind of sucked, too tough, not pillowy-soft, but I had no time to improve the bread for this application, I had to lock in and go given the clock.  I love my brioche recipe, but when scaled back to a 20 gram loaf, the dimensions failed to deliver the same texture as observed for the 600 gram loaf - a problem to be explored and reported on in a future post.

The Food Experiments: Columbus (smoke) - 36 hours to go...

Updated during the day leading up to The Food Experiment: Columbus, check back once in a while and buy a ticket, see you at Skully's Diner Sunday July 15th 1-4 pm.

My dish: bulgur/turkey meatball, smoked in tomato served in a mini brioche bread bowl...

We receive an unexpected surprise,

Theo's Prize for Experimentation

We bask in culinary glory all night.

Thanks for bringing The Food Experiments to Columbus Theo

we pack up, we serve 200 treats

Frankie, my assistant full speed counting brioche.

baked at 375, 250 to go

proof and egg wash

risen and ready

6 Kg brioche dough set in fridge for overnight

see you at 5

ready to go

 ready to go to braise, very rare please

smoky braise in light tomato sauce using cherry

 ground turkey, bulgur, etc.  280 of them

 getting coals/wood ready for braising

 smoked tomato sauce to braise the meatballs

using the extender to cook the big pot of sauce

Food Experiment: Columbus Edition, the theme is smoke

The past week has been eventful with the heatwave, no power and various other imminent end of the earth as we know it kind of indicators.  These events have conspired to trip up our efforts to prepare for The Food Experiments Columbus Edn, alas, fear not dear reader, we are back and experimenting our ass off.  In this contest, amateur cheftestants make something that highlights the theme, in our hometown, it is smoke.  We will be competing for glory (and a few material goods), but glory is the biggie - it is what we live for.  The competition will be held at Skully's from 1-4 July 15th.  

Given our fondness for meatballs, we will be compiling said morsel incorporating many layers of smoke-infused goodness.  I can't give too many details, but it will encompass:

• a grain
• the fattiest muscle of a certain semi-flightless bird
• a cheese
• an herb
• layers of smoke to taste
• it will not be kosher

That's it kids.  On the morning of the competition our kitchens will be busy, sous chef at my side, making about 300 of these little nuggets, we're hoping we do not look like we have a snood ourselves.  Judges: please have mercy.

My First Sale, $35 for a School Silent Auction

In May I auctioned off a loaf of bread a week for 4 weeks at Frankie's school's silent auction and it sold for $35! 

Week 1: Baguettes.  Making a few loaves a day presents a huge statistical challenge.  Make a couple hundred loaves and you're cranking a well-oiled machine, one loaf sucks and it's no biggie, make 3 and one is bad, big problem.  This time, a good day.  All 3 nice specimens I was proud to give away.  Below is the image of the prize and my baking specifics below.  I hope the breads were acceptable.

"Coffee is produce." -Andy Luck (Luck Bros Coffee House)

In matters of food and drink, my expectations are high and rarely exceeded.  Last Saturday morning I attended Columbus Food Adventure's quarterly coffee tour.  The caffeine buzz almost dissipated, I remain excited having gained a wealth of coffee knowledge, and yes, my expectations were greatly exceeded.  I hope this brief post entices you to take this tour and learn for yourself.

our wicked cool baristas hustling our drinks

Our tour guide whisked us away in a behemoth Ford E-Series van to our first of 3 stops, Cafe Brioso, where we tasted our way through an expertly prepared full flight of coffee drinks (and warm milk, yum).  It was a thorough guide to what your barista should be doing for you when you lay down your hard earned cash.  I was biased when we were introduced to one of our presenters, JJ, I knew it would be good.  My last visit to Brioso was during Independents' Day.  On that visit I talked with JJ, he was drinking an espresso and gave me, a total stranger/coffee enthusiast, a sip from his own cup!  The staff are into it, they love coffee, they love to educate, they work hard, they know their drink.  I left there ashamed of what I didn't know just an hour earlier.

The van pulled away from Brioso, we were primed and dangerous.

Next stop, Stauf's roasting facility.  Those of us who could steady our hand received some treats, more coffee and a blend of organoleptic and analytical information related to tasting and roasting coffee.  I love the sensory aspects of coffee, but the analytical stuff is even better: roasting parameters, equipment, diagnostic measurements, &c.  Stauf's roasters understand their niche in the bigger industry setting, they know the industry they are a part of and all the necessary testing methods required to deliver good coffee and accommodate us - the customer.

Final stop, Luck Bros Coffee House  where Andy Luck, engaged us in a socratic discussion of brewing coffee and offered our extremely alert gang a sample of the famous bake.  He talked us through some simple, yet critical aspects of making coffee on our own - no judging.  The epiphany for me is embodied in the title of this post. Coffee shouldn't come from Kroger with a two year expiration date.   

If you're mindful of your coffee, you need this experience.

A simple curried cauliflower

This cuisine is amazing. I made this for side to take to a bbq today.  Cauliflower was roasted at 350F with oil and salt for 40 minutes.  In another pan I heated up vegetable oil and turmeric, coriander, cumin, mustard seed, diced jalapeno, garlic and shredded ginger.  The spice and pepper mix was pureed (adding some water to slurry it up) and poured it on the roasted cauliflower.  I added some currants and golden raisins and let it sit at room temperature before serving.

Big grain waffles, a robust preparation

In matters of food and parenting, my favorite author is Mathew Amster-Burton (@Mamster, author of Hungry Monkey).  I don't have a quote, but he says not to try to hard to get your kid to try new foods, let their peers take care of it.  I like this advice and comply diligently.  I'd like to have a beer with him sometime (hey, if you're ever in Columbus ...).  In addition to the parenting wisdom, he describes a version of overnight yeasted waffles we've made for a long time now.

The only difference is I don't separate egg yolks/whites or beat whites or anything like that.  The only value I bring to this preparation is that I've tested it a gazillion times, used lots of different grain combinations and it always produces a surprisingly light, but grainy waffle.  My post is merely a validation of the prep.

The night before, mix:
butter, unsalted and melted, 114 grams (1 stick)
milk, any temperature any kind, 500 grams
salt, 5 g
sugar, 15 g
eggs, 2
dry active yeast, ca. 1/4 t
--and here's where it gets fun--
300 grams of grains
The only thing I make sure of is 100 grams of the grain bill is unbleached white (some fine white flour is necessary for structure in the final waffles), the rest can be any combination that adds up to 200 grams, e.g.
-spent grains from brewing - barley, rye, wheat (hydrated)
-cornmeal
-coarse whole wheat flour
-rolled oats
-rye flakes
-&c
have fun

Mix all ingredients, cover the bowl with a dish towel and the next morning, just ladle it into your preheated waffle iron.  That's it.  Makes enough for 3-4 people and about a week's worth in the freezer - this recipe is pretty big.

We top them with everything, it's a blast.

yum!

Dear Megan's Father, we're not worthy

it's wonderful

Our depression era behavior toward consumption of gifts is irrational.  We have unconsumed: a 750 of Rockmill Brewery's Dubbel, 10 or so ancient gift cards, a big juicy refectory GC, a Rioja that we might deed to Frankie, there are others.

Unlike gift cards, handcrafted food is a gift of oneself.  And, that person waits anxiously for the day when feedback arrives.  I know this too well, sometimes it hurts.  To hoard these treasures is cruel and unusual.

About two months ago, a friend generously gave us a package of prosciutto made by her father(!!).  Perfectly cured, perfectly sliced and perfectly vacuum wrapped.  It wasn't just the professional presentation of a rare delicacy, it was so well packaged, I thought we could keep it for nearly ever, and almost tried.  Prompted by the presentation of yet another batch of the delectable ham, we tore in to it and our expectations and desires were perfectly realized: texture, salt, everything, just perfect!  We're going to savor it and enjoy it slowly, but we are going to consume it, with not a trace uneaten.  We thank you and apologize for holding these comments hostage.

ps Stop by, even if you only have a few minutes next time in Columbus, a pizza only takes about 90 seconds.

chappathi

I've never been a big fan of whole wheat flour.  The big commercial mills have stuff that tastes bad, KAF white whole wheat is ok, I've enjoyed baked goods made with a ca. 30% of the grain bill as Stutzman Farms (link when I find it) whole wheat, but it's too coarsely milled for a 100% whole wheat anything.  Inspiration from a couple friends this week changed all that (thanks Gary and Indu!).

Last weekend we enjoyed an incredible spread of Indian delicacies, both meat and vegetarian; it was the type of food you eat way past the point of satiation, way past.  So, I got some books and am starting to get into the cuisine a bit.  On the way there I needed a starchy foundation to hold all I want to make.  Chappathi sounded like a good bread to start.  Another friend was kind enough to coax her child to videotape her preparation.  This video, some question and answer, a bunch of youtube vids and some reading and voilà.  Here's my prep with a few details I thought significant based on failed runs.

The recipe is trivial, whole wheat flour, I used atta from a Mediterranean food market (167 g), salt (2 g) and water (100 g), mix, knead and let sit a few minutes, then divide into 70 g balls and round them, let rest again.  I rolled these balls into 8" diameter discs and tossed them on an electric skillet at a surface temperature of 400°F (+/- 20°F, measured with an IR thermometer) for about a minute on each side and finished them off by placing them on a lit burner for about 15 seconds until it puffs or catches on fire. I used an electric skillet because I wanted to know the temperature at least once.  In earlier failed attempts, I think the pan on the stove was not hot enough.  So, in the future I know to get the surface at least this hot.  Also appreciate the thickness of the rolled dough is dictated by the diameter of the rolled dough and it's mass, it's too hard to measure the thickness.

Atta flour vs Stutzman Farms whole wheat, I think it's clear, but the atta is much more finely milled.
Click on image and the difference in fineness is a little easier to visualize.

The brand of atta I used.

chappathi - thanks again you two!
 I'm not sure how good these look, but I think I could live on them,
and they're ready in a few minutes!  I totally see wraps in my future lunches.